Review: Revolución Bar in Gyeongnidan
Since returning to Seoul a couple of weeks ago from a long break overseas, I have spent most of my time grazing at old favourites – Linus BBQ, Don Charly, Coreanos Kitchen, Vatos, and Firebell burger and Dongin Dong south of the river, among others – and neglected the many changes in the HBC / Gyeongnidan neighbourhood in the last few months. Since I left for South America at the start of September, literally dozens of new places have opened in this neck of the woods, all of which spells bad news for me, my cardiologist, shirtmaker and love life. (Women are using me constantly so far in 2015, but only for my knowledge of foreign food in Itaewon, which doesn’t really help.)
So as we enter mid January, it’s time to try some new things. I started off yesterday with lunch at the new and improved Lobster Bar in Itaewon, which was terrific and recommended to all (though, at 49,000 won for a full lobster, it is expensively – albeit fairly – priced by any Seoul benchmark).
As night fell, I took two Korean friends to the newest addition to the Gyeongnidan scene, Revolución, which is up the hill behind Maloney’s Pub. It’s a little tricky to find, which in my book is a good thing – and, being just three weeks old, its footprint on Korean blogosphere and social media is so scanty that my co-conspirators initially refused to believe that it existed. But it does, and when you get to the top of a steep but short hill, a warm welcome awaits you.
Revolución is fairly small – space for maybe twenty people seated, and a few more standing – but looks really funky from the outside and has a great ambience once you’re in. This is undoubtedly helped by the lovely wood-burning stove in the corner, which kept us warm despite the occasional draught from the door.
Revolución‘s beer selection includes four locally-brewed options – Itaewon Pale Ale, a Red Line Pilsner (my favourite), World Record Stout and a Citrus Hefeweizen – all extremely reasonably priced at or under 7,000 won for a pint. They also carry a range of Belgian bottled beers, which obviously will run you a little more. I believe there are plans to expand and tweak the beer selections in the coming months.
Food-wise, there is a choice of two hot sandwiches and a couple of other bits and pieces. The Cubano was terrific. My first experience of a Cuban sandwich, it contains thinly sliced ham and cheese, salami and chunks of another meat (roasted beef?), anchored with a little pickle and some wholegrain mustard. No idea if it’s authentic, but it was damn good.
The roast duck sandwich was also very tasty, with some greens, brie and tomato in there and a very generous filling of juicy duck. It was a bit too challenging to eat, the duck refusing to come away in the mouth as easily as the crisp bread, leading to a bit of reconstruction of fallen bits of meat and filling in the basket. If this can be fixed it’ll be another winner.
The stars, for me, were the two cheapest and simplest items; the superb Jamaican meat patties, which in Britain I suppose we would call pasties, served piping hot with a filling of spicy, almost curry-like minced beef. Just 4,000 won each, they were perfect with a cold beer. Loved these.
My other highlight was the chips – proper, thick-cut, perfectly cooked chips, not the poor imitations you get elsewhere. Frankly, I could have eaten these all night, if I thought there was a better than 50% chance of making it back home to HBC without a taxi. Perfect.
Overall, I really liked this place. The owners were chatty and friendly, the food and beer was top-notch, and the whole bar had a nice vibe. It’s hidden away enough to have the feel of a secret neighbourhood speakeasy, but was busy enough on a Tuesday night, after just three weeks of operation, for us to be optimistic that it’s here to stay.
Just don’t let the Tasty Road people in here, please! Hopefully the Revolución will not be televised.
- Category: Bar / Latin American
- Price: $$$$
- Must try: Cubano sandwich, chips
- Subway: Noksapyeong (녹사평역) exit 2
- Directions: Come out of Noksapyeong station and walk up towards Namsan / HBC. Cross the road and turn right at Noxa and walk up Gyeongnidan street, past the Wellbeing Mart. At Maloney’s Pub, turn right up a short but steep hill and Revolución is at the top, just on your right.
- Hours: 6pm until 12 midnight, 7 days a week. Weekend brunch opening 10am-2pm is planned. See their Facebook page for more details.